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23056 Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution
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Bokhove, O. and van der Horn, A.J. and van der Meer, R.M. and Gagarina, E. and Zweers, W. and Thornton, A.R. (2013) Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution. Memorandum 2004, Department of Applied Mathematics, University of Twente, Enschede. ISSN 1874-4850

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Wave action, particularly during storms, drives the evo lution of beaches. Beach evolution by non-linear break ing waves is poorly understood due to its three-dimensional character, the range of scales involved, and our limited understanding of particle-wave interactions. We show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw” laboratory experiment can be designed that creates beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-two-dimensional setting. Our thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics: all dynamics become clearly visible and measurable. We show that beaches can be created in tens of minutes by several types of breaking waves, with about one-second periods. Quasi-steady beach morphologies emerge as function of initial water depth, at-rest bed level and wave-maker frequency. These are classified mathematically and lead to beaches, berms and sand bars.

Item Type:Internal Report (Memorandum)
Research Group:EWI-MACS: Mathematics of Computational Science
Research Program:MESA-General
Research Project:A numerical Wave Tank for Complex Wave and Current Interactions, Compatible Mathematical Models for Coastal Hydrodynamics, Flow of granular matter in thin layers pipes and open channels
Uncontrolled Keywords:Water waves, Granular Flows, Coastal engineering, Geophysical fluid dynamics
ID Code:23056
Deposited On:04 February 2013
More Information:statisticsmetis

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